A fireplace provides radiant heating, but also draws in cold air. A: Air for the combustion, in drafty rooms pulled from the outdoors. B: Hot exhaust gas heats building by as it leaves by chimney.
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Radiant heat is heat which radiates out from an element, warming objects rather than the air. An example of this heat that many people may be familiar with is the heat which comes off an electric element on a stove. Radiant, sometimes called under-floor, heating is a way to heat a building by circulating warm water through a network of RAUPEX ® piping, typically embedded in concrete. The warm surfaces radiate to the objects and people in the space, creating a comfortable environment.
C: Radiant heat, mostly from the high temperature flame, heats as it isRadiant heating and cooling systems are temperature-controlled surfaces that exchange heat with their surrounding environment through. By definition, in radiant heating and cooling systems, thermal radiation covers more than 50% of heat exchange within the space.radiant heating and cooling systems are water-based. It refers to panels or embedded building components (floors, ceilings or walls). Other types include air-based and electrical systems (which use electrical resistance for heating purpose mainly).
Important portions of building surfaces are usually required for the radiant exchange. Gas burningRadiant heating is a technology for heating indoor and outdoor areas. Heating by is observed every day, the warmth of the sunshine being the most commonly observed example. Radiant heating as a technology is more narrowly defined. It is the method of intentionally using the principles of to transfer from an emitting heat source to an object. Designs with radiant heating are seen as replacements for conventional as well as a way of supplying confined outdoor heating.Indoor Radiant heating heats a building through, rather than conventional methods such as (mostly ). An example is the Austrian/German ( Kachelofen), a type of.
Mixed radiation, convection and conduction systems have existed since the use of heating. Underfloor radiant heating has long been widespread in.
The heat energy is emitted from a warm element, such as a floor, wall or overhead panel, and warms people and other objects in rooms rather than directly heating the air. The internal air for radiant heated buildings may be lower than for a conventionally heated building to achieve the same level of body comfort, when adjusted so the perceived temperature is actually the same. One of the key advantages of radiant heating systems is a much decreased circulation of air inside the room and the corresponding spreading of airborne particles.Radiant heating/cooling systems can be divided into:.
systems— or. Wall heating systems.Underfloor and wall heating systems often are called low-temperature systems. Since their heating surface is much larger than other systems, a much lower temperature is required to achieve the same level of. This provides an improved room climate with healthier humidity levels. The maximum temperature of the heating surface can vary from 29–35 °C (84–95 °F) depending on the room type.
Radiant overhead panels are mostly used in production and warehousing facilities or sports centers; they hang a few meters above the floor and their surface temperatures are much higher.Outdoors In the case of heating outdoor areas, the surrounding air is constantly moving. Relying on convection heating is in most cases impractical, the reason being that, once you heat the outside air, it will blow away with air movement. Even in a no-wind condition, the effects will carry away the hot air. Outdoor radiant heaters allow specific spaces within an outdoor area to be targeted, warming only the people and objects in their path. Radiant heating systems may be gas-fired or use electric infrared heating elements. An example of the overhead radiant heaters are the often used with outdoor serving. The top metal disc reflects the radiant heat onto a small area.Cooling Radiant cooling is the use of cooled surfaces to remove primarily by and only secondarily by other methods like.
Defines radiant systems as temperature-controlled surfaces where 50% or more of the design heat transfer takes place by thermal radiation. Radiant systems that use water to cool the radiant surfaces examples of systems. Unlike “all-air” air conditioning systems that circulate cooled air only, hydronic radiant systems circulate cooled water in pipes through specially-mounted panels on a building's or to provide comfortable temperatures. There is a separate system to provide air for, and potentially additionally cooling. Radiant systems are less common than all-air systems for cooling, but can have advantages compared to all-air systems in some applications.Since the majority of the cooling process results from removing sensible heat through radiant exchange with people and objects and not air, occupant thermal comfort can be achieved with warmer interior air temperatures than with air based cooling systems. Radiant cooling systems potentially offer reductions in cooling energy consumption. The latent loads (humidity) from occupants, infiltration and processes generally need to be managed by an independent system.
Radiant cooling may also be integrated with other energy-efficient strategies such as night time flushing, indirect, or as it requires a small difference in temperature between desired indoor air temperature and the cooled surface. History Early radiant cooling systems were installed in the late 1930s and 1940s in Europe and by the 1950s in the US. They became more common in Europe in the 1990s and continue to be used today. Advantages Radiant cooling systems offer lower energy consumption than conventional cooling systems based on research conducted by the. Radiant cooling energy savings depend on the climate, but on average across the US savings are in the range of 30% compared to conventional systems.
Cool, humid regions might have savings of 17% while hot, arid regions have savings of 42%. Hot, dry climates offer the greatest advantage for radiant cooling as they have the largest proportion of cooling by way of removing sensible heat. While this research is informative, more research needs to be done to account for the limitations of simulation tools and integrated system approaches. Much of the energy savings is also attributed to the lower amount of energy required to pump water as opposed to distribute air with fans.
By coupling the system with building mass, radiant cooling can shift some cooling to off-peak night time hours. Radiant cooling appears to have lower first costs and lifecycle costs compared to conventional systems. Lower first costs are largely attributed to integration with structure and design elements, while lower life cycle costs result from decreased maintenance. However, a recent study on comparison of VAV reheat versus active chilled beams & DOAS challenged the claims of lower first cost due to added cost of piping Limiting factors Because of the potential for condensate formation on the cold radiant surface (resulting in water damage, mold and the like), radiant cooling systems have not been widely applied. Caused by is a limiting factor for the cooling capacity of a radiant cooling system. The surface temperature should not be equal or below the in the space. Some standards suggest a limit for the in a space to 60% or 70%.
An air temperature of 26 °C (79 °F) would mean a dew point between 17 °C and 20 °C (63 °F and 68 °F). There is, however, evidence that suggests decreasing the surface temperature to below the dew point temperature for a short period of time may not cause. Also, the use of an additional system, such as a or, can limit humidity and allow for increased cooling capacity.System description While there are a broad range of system technologies, there are two primary types of radiant cooling systems. The first type is systems that deliver cooling through the building structure, usually slabs. These systems are also named thermally activated building systems (TABS). The second type is systems that deliver cooling through specialized panels.
Systems using concrete slabs are generally cheaper than panel systems and offer the advantage of thermal mass, while panel systems offer faster temperature control and flexibility.Chilled slabs Radiant cooling from a slab can be delivered to a space from the floor or ceiling. Since radiant heating systems tend to be in the floor, the obvious choice would be to use the same circulation system for cooled water. While this makes sense in some cases, delivering cooling from the ceiling has several advantages.First, it is easier to leave ceilings exposed to a room than floors, increasing the effectiveness of thermal mass. Section diagram of a radiant panelEnergy sources Radiant systems are associated with low-exergy systems. Low-exergy refers to the possibility to utilize ‘low quality energy’ (i.e. Dispersed energy that has little ability to do useful work).
Both heating and cooling can in principle be obtained at temperature levels that are close to the ambient environment. The low temperature difference requires that the heat transmission takes place over relative big surfaces as for example applied in ceilings or underfloor heating systems.Radiant systems using low temperature heating and high temperature cooling are typical example of low-exergy systems.Energy sources such as geothermal (direct cooling / geothermal heat pump heating) and solar hot water are compatible with radiant systems. These sources can lead to important savings in terms of primary energy use for buildings.Notable buildings using radiant systems Some well-known buildings using radiant cooling include Bangkok's, the Infosys Software Development Building 1 in Hyderabad, and the San Francisco. Radiant cooling is also used as a design strategy in some.
I'm very happy with my floor heat mat.Installation was easy - by easy, I mean not much more difficult than standard tiling, which I'm not that great at. Having the mat in place made things slightly more difficult compared to normal tiling, but it only added a few minutes onto my project.Wiring was simple.After installation, everything is working fantastically. I love having warm tiles, it feels very luxurious. The thermostat works well, and has many programming options available.Everyone has great things to say about the warm tile - it's been a great addition to our house. We installed the electric radiant floor heating system under a new tile floor.
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It has been in for about 6 weeks and works beautifully. We installed it ourselves, following the directions that were with the flooring material. We have already purchased a second mat for another bathroom remodel and have confidently recommended the product to friends.Installation tip: Use a hot glue gun to secure the mat and wire to the cement or backer board in several places before you put down the thin set.
That will keep the mat In place while you lay the tile. I also used it to secure the sensor in the right place so it would not move. Great system, high quality throughout, works terrific - we installed to upgrade a basement rental unit bathroom when remodeling. High end feature for small money, what's not to like? Ignore reviewers who expect a warm tile floor over concrete in 15 minutes (think: thermal mass); it can take a couple of days to get toasty over a thick concrete slab, in a cold climate. However, once its warm, it'll stay warm. You want to put the programmable thermostat on a schedule that works for you, and basically run it all winter.
This one heats up faster than the more expensive brand we have in our home, so the rental house got the better set up. Highly recommend. If you look at my review history, you will notice that I dont write them very often.
This being said, I will about this product. I use it to warm my bedroom (20x12), and it does an exceptional job. Does it 'click'? Yes, when it turns on and off, or when its going from a completely 'cold start'. This clicking isnt to annoying or distracting (I dont know of a heating system that is 100% quite when kicking on). But does it work? Short answer is yes.
Long answer is still yes but you have to understand how it works. It is a radiant heater not a direct heat heater. It heats the air and objects in the room. This takes awhile. Once the room is heated, it stays heated.
If you open doors, expect the temperature to decrease and take a little time to get up to the original. The thermostat is attractive, sophisticated and fairly user-friendly (you can have it heat the floor only at times when you're home, and it can figure out when to start heating in order to reach the target temp by the programmed time.)Importantly, the thermostat has a built-in GFI (ground fault interrupt), which is required by many local building codes (and simply a good idea.) It isn't mentioned in the product listing, but it's there, so no worries.Test and test and test (the heating wire and the temperature probe) before you commit to cementing it into your floor. All you need is a resistance reading with a multimeter. I have only installed this product, the tile has not been laid and we're not moving in for another month.BLUF: Spend the extra $60 and get a mat-based set unless it absolutely will not work.Planning:Take the time to layout the best way to meet your room dimensions and needs. Take into account where you will actually be standing/walking.
You don't typically put your foot within 4' of a wall unless the room is super narrow, but you might stand right up to the edge of a tub/shower while turning on the water. Keep it 6' away from the toilet to prevent the wax ring from melting (some people debate this point, I figure its not worth the risk for no reward)You can actually heat the room with several different approach, if you have a massive Roman Bath you might want to focus the heat on certain areas. Product description was true to form. Easy installation, I had a small area and it fit perfectly and heats the floor within a few minutes. Thermostat was surprisingly technical and allowed for daytime, vacation and other settings which allow you to control the heat. I put it over cement board and I mortared directly over it.
It took a little longer to lay the tike as I needed to build up the mortar in the surrounding areas but overall the product works well.I did add an extra sensor just in case the current one goes for some reason. It's a cost of less than $7.00 so i would recommend buying it along withe the product. I purchased two of these warming mats about a year ago and installed them in January of 2012. It is recommended that a curing period of 1 month be observed for the thin set to dry completely so I did not get to use them much last year as we had a warm spring.
As mentioned I bought two mats and did two bathrooms. I felt like I was taking a bit of a risk with no reviews on this product and limited information but they were cheaper than I could find the mat and thermostat anywhere else. The math may have changed by now but these were a bargain and I see the price remains the same now (nov-2012) as when I purchased them.
I did do a lot of research before going this route and came to the conclusion that the real value. The material itself is very high quality. I installed this on the roof trusses in the attic space above the second story addition on my house. This addition gets sun exposure for most of the day and the A/C handler and ductwork for the upstairs is also located in this attic space, so reducing the temperature should also help the a/c run a little more efficiently in addition to reducing heat transfer to the room itself. The temperature drop was rather significant in the attic, typically just a few degrees above the outside air temperature, rather than 115+ °F. A thermometer I had with me while installing was reading right around 115 °F on a 90 °F day.on the next day after installation it was reading just under 100 °F with the outside air temperature closer to 95 °F (both sunny days, measured at the same.
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